Guess what I'm doing tomorrow..??
Grrrr.....
(http://iloapp.empressmcc.org.uk/data/_gallery/public/1/140883165729913900_resized.jpg)
Working off some angst by designing cynical patches always works for me...
Jeff
I like it Jeff!
Sadly, it's true!!
Pete.
Silver lining.... There will soon be a new "Replacing the Sprag" page, with some lovely photos, on the HOC website, technical section...
Jeff
Here y'go folks... First cut of a "changing the sprag" page for the website:
CHANGING THE SPRAG (http://heskethownersclub.org.uk/technical/Sprag/Changing_the_Sprag.htm)
Please feel free to comment on this, particularly if you spot any actual errors.
(BTW: No. I won't be adding the bit about leaning the bike against your maiden aunt or a handy ice-cream van to avoid draining the oil)
Cheers
Jeff
Aaaargh..!!!
Spragged again..!!! Fek, fek, fek..!!!!
If anyone has details of where to obtain the sprag cage element (BWX131003 (4C), REGP 4972 (4C), or DC4972 (4C)) I would be VERY much obliged...
Thanks in advance
Jeff
Jeff
If you need the part in a hurry to make the most of the decent weather, whilst one you source is on order, I have one on the shelf (was delivered with the bike, so no idea of provenance though, I am afraid).
You are most welcome to have mine and send me your replacement when it comes in.....
Cheers
Pete
Pete, Jeff,
The provenance is excellent. Me!
I bought them from Ringspann a few years ago. RINGSPANN (UK) Ltd. 3 Napier Road, Bedford, U.K, MK41 0QS
2 3677.049.602.000000 4 £31.93 £127.72
BWX1310003
Cheers,
Robert
Aha......
I feel even more comfortable with 'lending' my spare out then!
Hi Jeff,
Got my sprags from Eriks - they have the Renold version REGP4972(4C)-REN.
Eriks have depots all over the UK - very useful off the shelf supplier of O rings when you do your Socks etc. Eriks have a depot in Glasgow, so worth checking if they have them in stock.
In 2013 they cost me £50 each plus delivery.
My unused spare is also available should you need it.
I suspect most Hesketh owners have a spare sprag.
Dave H
Many thanks Guys... I've taken DaveH (Snr) up on his kind offer as I saw his e-mail before logging on here - Thanks also Pete D. Nice to know that the Club is still attracting supportive members...
Looks like I may need to get the i/d of the starter race measured as mine may be a 'slack' one...
Next up is a check of the accel pumps in the carbs as they may be the culprit - too much juice causing back-firing...
More, as it happens...
Jeff
Hello Jeff,
You mentioned the accelerator pumps maybe causing a backfire. I remember Mick saying when I bought my first HESKETH in 1983; NEVER touch the throttle when starting a HESKETH from cold, only use the choke. I have seen people twisting the throttle repeatedly before starting the bike instead of using the choke and I personally think that is a recipe for disaster. Also of course it washes away any residual trace of lubrication from the top end. I don't touch the throttle until the bike is running and ready to come off choke and idle.
Anything less than a fully charged fresh battery is more likely the cause of a good "spragging". Just for interest, if you measure the voltage across the coils, the nominal 6 to 6.5 volt in series when running actually drops well below 4 volts whilst the starter motor is cranking and so the spark is already quite pathetic when you actually need it most. With anything less than a fully charged battery, this volt drop can result in no spark whatsoever, until the moment you release the starter button. Then you instantly get two big fat sparks on both plugs at the same time with no regard to the actual crank position.
There is a modification which is next on my list and requires some searching arround for the right kind of relay and a little head scratching with the non-existent wiring diagram. What this does is to energise a relay triggered from the starter relay so that the coils switch from series to parallel for the brief moment that the starter motor is actually turning. Then, instead of the two six volt coils operating on less than 4 volts, they actually have nearly eight volts. The relay returns the coils back to 6 volt with a series circuit again the moment the starter button is released. I must get round to trying this one day....
RB
This Mod Rob..?
(http://iloapp.heskethownersclub.org.uk/data/_gallery/public/1/143990227350769400_resized.jpg)
A 12Volt DPDT relay isn't hard to find, but one with 6.3mm Lucar terminals that'll be 'plug 'n play with the wiring on the Hesketh is... This one is a bit OTT with regard to the contact current spec, but it's just what Dr Mick ordered in all other respects...
(http://uk.farnell.com/productimages/standard/en_GB/1892032-40.jpg) (http://uk.farnell.com/te-connectivity-potter-brumfield/t92s11d22-12/relay-dpdt-12vdc-30a/dp/1892041)
Other relays may require 'flying leads' to be soldered into place prior to connection into the bike's wiring...
I've not had any trouble with the bike backfiring until I re-did the silencer acoustic wadding... I've been advised to check the carbs, ignition timing and silencer joints... Looks like another rebuild on the cards... ;)
Jeff
Awesome,
Thanks ever so much Jeff. I will modify the Vampire now as it is already full of relays for horn, high/low beam, daytime running light etc. The Suzuki GS1000 switchgear is OK but getting old and was never designed for direct connection. My headlight is massively improved.
I met your mate from Wareham last night at the Bugad bike night which was great. Good turnout of bikes and a beautiful evening. My V1000 was running on song and I now know it is at least as quick a Tiger 900 but not as quick as an MV Brutale!
RB
Quote from: Rob B on August 19, 2015, 08:42:28 AM
I met your mate from Wareham last night at the Bugad bike night which was great. Good turnout of bikes and a beautiful evening. My V1000 was running on song and I now know it is at least as quick a Tiger 900 but not as quick as an MV Brutale!
Great! Was Tink (Neil) on his big Yamaha Warrior then..? Good to see he's enjoying his return to 2-wheels (he was on three for a good few years after a hip replacement).
I'd have been more than a little surprised if you could keep up with the MV - VERY fast bike indeed. Nice to hear your V1000 is running well - They're great fun when they're going well, eh..?
Jeff
A couple of weeks ago, this was discussed...
Quote from: Miti on August 18, 2015, 01:53:28 PM
This Mod Rob..?
(http://iloapp.heskethownersclub.org.uk/data/_gallery/public/1/143990227350769400_resized.jpg)
A 12Volt DPDT relay isn't hard to find, but one with 6.3mm Lucar terminals that'll be 'plug 'n play with the wiring on the Hesketh is... This one is a bit OTT with regard to the contact current spec, but it's just what Dr Mick ordered in all other respects...
(http://uk.farnell.com/productimages/standard/en_GB/1892032-40.jpg) (http://uk.farnell.com/te-connectivity-potter-brumfield/t92s11d22-12/relay-dpdt-12vdc-30a/dp/1892041)
Other relays may require 'flying leads' to be soldered into place prior to connection into the bike's wiring...
I've not had any trouble with the bike backfiring until I re-did the silencer acoustic wadding... I've been advised to check the carbs, ignition timing and silencer joints... Looks like another rebuild on the cards... ;)
Jeff
Yesterday, we were at this point:
(http://iloapp.empressmcc.org.uk/data/_gallery/public/11/144084137086833300_resized.jpg?width=1024&height=768)
I ordered the relay based on the picture the vendor provided... 1 digit out on the part number and you get a PCB mount version, not the spade terminal one pictured... Ho Hum...
So, I spent a while soldering flying leads to the realy (
may have worked out for the best in the end...)
Tank, off, covers lifted and there are the coils... I spent AGES getting the lower coil out of the bracket on the bike to swap the terminals about - the mod calls for three wires on the +ve side and only one on the -ve... PLEASE don't do this... The terminals are pre-formed as pairs and you can't do what I had planned... I put it all back together and made up a short 2:1 adaptor to enable the 2rd wire to be added... After a couple of evenings and a few hours yesterday, the bike was back together with the 'Coil Relay Mod' installed...
(http://iloapp.empressmcc.org.uk/data/_gallery/public/11/144084138328089800_resized.jpg?width=1024&height=768)
Relay held onto frame tube with cable tie... Might subject it to too many vibes and I'll be looking for a better solution than this...
(http://iloapp.empressmcc.org.uk/data/_gallery/public/11/144084139679208300_resized.jpg?width=1024&height=768)
Wiring from relay crosses frame and doubles back to coil terminals, ensuring that there was enough slack to effect the connections... The coil earth is secured under one of the harness/frame earth bolts and the coil feed follows the harness along the frame, down past the battery and onto a 6.3mm spade affixed to the starter lead terminal (
so it 'goes live' as the starter is activated).
I put it all back together and rolled it outside for a try... It back-fired... >:(
Right..!! All it's done is back-fire, ever since I re-packed the silencers... They were WAY too loud without the packing and don't seem to work at all with it, so they've had their last chance..!!
I pulled the shorty silencers (
pity, they're beautiful on the bike) and re-fitted the OE system...
An hour later, I tried again... She started, but not nicely... ran for a few secs, dropped onto one and stalled... Wouldn't start up after that...
I've either wired up the relay incorrectly, or she's developed a new fault... Deep Joy..!!
I'm off to the rugby today (Scotland/Italy) and that'll help prevent serious hammer rash to the bike...
Back to the fray tomorrow...
Grrrrr....!!Jeff
Triple checked the wiring today... Tested the DC resistance of the coils and how the new relay operates... All OK... :-\
Got the bike running, but she kept dropping onto one cyl, with the rear cyl 'flooding'
I know the carbs were set OK before all this, so i went back to basics with the ignition...
I checked the gap between the rotor and the pick-up coil - too small to measure - Don't know how as all the screws were still tight..?
The rotor was covered in surface rust too... I cleaned the rotor and re-set the gap to 0.25mm. I double checked the gap on both lobes of the rotor - had to settle for 0.25mm on one and 0.30mm on the other as there is a little 'run-out' on the trigger shaft assy...
Got her started (eventually) and used a strobe to check the timing... It appears to be miles out... How can that be..? I'm now concerned that the Rita unit is playing me up...
Aaaargh...!! I'm supposed to be taking her to Spain in three weeks...!
Jeff
Hi,
The things you do up north to entertain yourself :-[
Some casual comments from an old man
If you reverse the wires on the reluctor pick up the timing is way out and does not advance.
The reluctor will carry on working if you cannot see the thing and it's covered in rust, it only needs a magnetic pulse.
The air gap needs to be as tiny as possible without the bits hitting each other to get a spark at low revs, not the easiest to achieve because the outer bearing is not in position and you think the play in the shaft will allow it to destroy itself but the thing has no play when the cover is fitted.
Put it back as it was and I bet it will go.
If you have had the tank off then you need to reset the carbs >:(
Mick
Hi Mick.
Thanks for your input... I've not reversed the pick-up wires - they're still in the OE connector, with the terminal set 90o to each other...
I'll re-set the reluctor gap with the smallest feeler gauge I have...
I only cleaned off the rust, 'cos it's rust and I'm allergic to it... ;)
The bike was running fine up to the point where I re-packed the silencers and it backfired... It broke the sprag and I had to replace that (again).
I have been meaning to re-set the accel pumps since I bought the bike as it's always chucked piles of unburnt fuel down the exhausts. I've re-set the carbs 'by ear' to ensure both slides were opening/closing together. I'll balance then with vacuum gauges when she's running well enough to do so...
When I finally got her running on Sunday, I used a strobe to check the timing... The timing mark on the rotor appears to be about 10o retarded..!! :-\ (Or I am..!!)
With the strobe connected to the front cyl and the bike idling at approx. 1,000 rpm (digital tacho), the rotating mark appears about 10o to the right of the stationary one (The one at '12 O'Clock). Revving the engine moves the rotating mark further to the right... This has me confused... Isn't that further retarding the ignition..? Clearly I need to consider this with a clear head... My blooming strobe light needs a degree in astro-physics to operate and it's been WAY too long since I needed to do this... I just don't understand why the timing might have maladjusted at all... None of these componnets have been fiddled with since I last took the covers off and that was literally thousands of miles ago... ???
(http://iloapp.heskethownersclub.org.uk/data/_gallery/public/1/1344811569_resized.jpg)
Jeff
Back to the fray today...
I went back to basics and read and re-read the manuals... It wasn't long before I realised where I had gone wrong...
On the V1000, we have two cylinders set at 90o to each other, there are two sets of timing marks, also set at 90o to each other and there is one pickup, with a single rotor, having two lobes, (you guessed it) set at 90o to each other...
The trick is to know which lobe, and which set of marks goes with which cylinder... ::)
That's where I went wrong... I was checking the timing marks for the rear cyl, with the strobe pick-up clamp around the front HT lead... :P :-[
I reset the rotor to pick-up gap with my thinnest feeler (0.05mm), set the engine for full advance with rear cyl @ 'TDC' on compression... Fuel on, chocke on and she just started... No back-firing or fuss, just started... ::)
I let her warm up and checked the timing... It was cock-on. 34o of advance from 5K rpm up...
I refitted he cover over the timing pick up and re-checked the timing... Still OK...
Looks like we might make Spain after all... Still got to check how's she's running with the accel pumps backed off, but things are cetainly looking up... :)
Jeff
Hello Jeff,
That surprises me a bit because the HESKETH has a wasted spark ignition system with the RITA unit connected to both coils. Hence, it doesn't matter which plug lead you use because they both fire together for the rear cylinder and then they both fire together again for the front cylinder. So, there is a crank phase difference of 270 degrees for ignition, followed by 450 degrees until the next one = 720 degrees or two full rotations. The RITA pickup is running at half of crankshaft speed so the lobes are disposed by 135 degrees and 225 degrees = 360 degrees.
RB
Hi Rob...
I have to admit, what you say sounds correct... I don't think I've ever used the rear lead to set the timing before either... And... The bike is still playing up...
I had her all boxed up and ready for a long ride in todays glorious sunshine... She didn't make it to the end of our path..!! >:( >:(
Within seconds of me taking her off choke, she dropped onto one cylinder... The rear one. I stopped the engine and swapped the plug... She fired up on two... I rode off... Within 100 yards she was back onto one cylinder... I struggled on, hoping the 2nd cyl would 'chime in'. It didn't...
I brought the bike back home and swapped the front plug for a new one... It worked for about half a minute...
Whilst I was playing about with the 'relay coil mod' I managed to pull the metal end off the front cyl HT lead... I re-attached it, but it was a bit of a 'faff'. I decided to swap this lead for a solid copper corred one... No difference... Front cyl 'missing' and eventually fouled again...
Tomorrow I'll swap the coil leads over and see if the fault swaps from front to rear cyls... I'm beginning to think that all my recent problems may have been down to a 33 yr old ignition coil starting to break down... Could explain why the timing appeared to be so wrong when using the front lead as the trigger for the strobe..?? :-\
If the fault does swap cyls, I'll probably replace both coils to keep them as 'a pair' and keep the remaing good 2nd Hd one as a spare...
Jeff
Your bike is putting up a good fight Jeff but it will be worth it in the end....
I had a good day at the Somerton Dyno with my V1000. We started off with 62hp at the rear wheel which is about 79bhp at the crank and a bit disappointing but with an AFR of 12 through most of the range which is somewhat rich. Reducing the Main Jets from 155 to 145 resulted in an AFR of 13.4 and an increase in rear wheel bhp to 68, about 88bhp at the crank. This was achieved at a self-imposed rev limit of 7,000 but the curve was still climbing slightly and I would estimate about 7,200 as the peak. What was really impressive was 75% of peak power available at only 4,000 rpm which makes for great overtaking and "real world" riding.
I have to say, the V1000 running at full power at 7,000 rpm sounds awesome!
Keep up the good work!
RB
Slight change to the above:
If we use 20% as the gearing and transmission losses from crank to rear wheel power then my two Dyno runs are as follows:
Run1 - 62hp at the rear wheel is approximately 78bhp at the crank
Changed jets.
Run2 - 68hp at the rear wheel is approximately 85bhp at the crank.
Given that a Factory V1000 with its plasticine valve springs, rubbish cam profiles and Triumph Dolomite valves produces about 65bhp at the crank at best, then I'm fairly pleased with this.
RB
Nice One Rob... :D
Those figures sound great - the bike must really pull well now...
My own V1000 is running properly again now... After checking the compression on both cyls on Sunday (just o be certain I wasn't carrying a mechanical fault) I ditched the coil relay mod, pulled the float bowls, cleaned all the jets and fitted new plugs...
She started up fine, so my pal Chris and I went out for a bit of a test ride - 150 miles later I'm going to say she's OK (for the minute).
My bike is running 150 main jets and with the accel pumps wound back in and the timing freshly set, she's pulling more cleanly than she ever has for me... Got another ride down to Northumberland planned this weekend, then another to the Highlands the week after - then Spain
Jeff