Hi Guys,
Just finished putting my bike back together but only have half the electrics I should have!
I have headlights, but not side, indicators, horn and instrument illumination but nothing else.
This is not a problem but I can't find a proper circuit diagram only the hand drawn picture with the connectors on it.
As I have no neutral or oil warning light I checked the supply to the cluster on the orange/white wire loom side but I can't trace it once it goes into the loom.
Cheers Simon
Sorted, orange/green wire broken inside the insulation where it goes into position 4 on the fuse box.
Thanks anyway. Simon
Hi Simon;
Sorry I wasn't online earlier, but seems you have the fault sorted now...
Are you sure that it was Fuse #4 though..? The owners manual says (pg 9):
Main Fuse: 35A - All Circuits Except Starter
Fuse #1 5A - Main Beam
Fuse #2 5A - Dip Beam
Fuse #3 5A - Parking Light, Tail light, Instrument Display
Fuse #4 8A - Ignition and Brake Lights
Fuse #5 8A - Horn and Turn Lights
If that is right... (and who am I to say that it is?) your original symptons suggest F1, F2 and F5 to be OK, but both F3 and F4 circuits to be suspect... I know the wiring runs in and out of the fusebox and that, on some bikes, the wiring is quite crushed twixt fusebox and airbox... (I added rubber mounts and alloy spacers to preserve the NOS harness on mine).
If you've already suffered a snapped wire, I'd be checking everything around the fusebox, just to give some degree of confidence that the bike will be (electrically) reliable.
Hope she's running OK.
Jeff
Thanks Jeff.
I have everything back except the front sidelight, which I will look at later.
Point taken on the fuse box, most of the wires have an indent as they have been trapped, the box already have spacers so I will try to find another solution.
Simon
When I bought my bike it had two short lengths of fuel pipe used as spacers between the fusebox and airbox (about 12mm long). The pipe wasn't resiliant enough and the harness was very squashed.
Fortunately, the bike had only covered about 40 miles in this state, so I was able to correct the situation before any permanent damage was done...
I used two 15mm lengths of alloy tubing as spacers and some small rubber tap washers to sandwich the airbox, so there is a rubber washer either side of the airbox plastic. A small "repair" washer on top of each of these stops the nuts/spacers from biting into the rubber (nyloc nuts, by the way).
I did a little sketch of the mounting - this repeated at both ends, of course.
(http://iloapp.empressmcc.org.uk/data/_gallery/public/11/142021666340263000_resized.jpg)
This made plenty of space for the wiring, but not enough room for the fusebox lid to be removed, so I carefully removed some of the edge of the rear muduard section, until adequate clearance was made. This was one of quite a few mods I've had to make to the GRP parts as the "professional" who rebuilt the bike didn't seem to understand what "hand made" actually entails...
Hope that helps
Jeff
Hi.
All electrics now working, replaced alot of connectors and spaced the fusebox so it doesn't trap the wires
All she needs now is the tank putting on, fuel pipes, brakes and clutch bleeding and some engine oil.
Then of course timing and carb set up, she will now have to wait until it is fit to take her outside.
Simon
Hello Simon,
Another thing worth checking these days are the spade connectors, especially the brass ones on the coils which seem to have "work hardened", gone brittle and/or cracked over the years and lost their springiness, or whatever the proper engineering word is! This results in either no sparks or loads of erratic sparks at the sparkplugs each revolution.
Cheers,
Robert
Guys,
I want to change out the fuse box, has anyone done this with minimal disruption to the wiring harness? I'm obviously thinking of the mini spade fuses for a more reliable contact.
Not done it on a Heskesaurus, but shouldn't be too difficult...
I would invest in a 6 or 8-way unit (to keep spare fuses handy) and don't buy one with a common +ve rail as the V1000 doesn't use that system - each way must be electrically separate on the input side and output side... (apologies if I'm teaching anyone to suck eggs here...)
This might come in useful...
(http://iloapp.heskethownersclub.org.uk/data/_gallery/public/1/143526646122210900_resized.jpg)
Jeff