Hesketh Owners Club Forum

This started off as a new chain and sprockets... "Just a bit of winter maintenance.."

As was discussed elsewhere, the V1000 engine has to be lowered to permit access to the sprocket nut and sprocket...  I decided to lift mine out and up:

(http://iloapp.empressmcc.org.uk/data/_gallery/public/11/142637056505286100_resized.jpg)

The bike was stripped over a two-day period and the main chassis parts sent to be bead-blasted and powder coated (ESP Coatings, Glasgow - Ask for Trevor).

Prior to taking the frame over, I made sure every thread in the frame was either covered or had a bolt inserted.  The frame parts came back like this:

(http://iloapp.empressmcc.org.uk/data/_gallery/public/11/142637056136200500_resized.jpg)

I spent another happy day removing the bolts and cleaning the threads with an airline (to blow any stray beads out) and a set of Metric taps...  The frame has four main thread sizes:  M5, M6, M8 and M10.  The swing-arm axles are 25mm with a 1.25 "fine" pitch and I blocked these with bolts/washers prior to blasting and used a toothbrush and the airline to clean all grit out before ensuring the axles screwed in correctly...

More, later...

Jeff

Bearings...

The V1000 frame has a total of six taper-roller bearings:

There are four L44643 bearings in the swing-arm pivot.

Edit:  12/08/2015 - Whilst the L44643 bearing will fit, it doesn't always come with an integral seal.  To ensure you get bearings with the seal (all four require this) order under number "L44600LA"  .  This is still widely available as a 'trailer bearing' but beware kits which mix/match the bearing types - two with a seal, two without, or even those with four bearings without seals... NOT good.  Jeff

(http://iloapp.empressmcc.org.uk/data/_gallery/public/11/142637257856424700_resized.jpg)

and two L44645 bearings in the steering head.

(http://iloapp.empressmcc.org.uk/data/_gallery/public/11/142637302772308500_resized.jpg)

All six bearings run in identical taper cups:  L44610, so they all have the same outer diameter, but the bore sizes differ.  The L44643s are "trailer bearings" having a 1" (25.40mm) bore, but the L44645s have a slightly larger bore at 1.0231" (25.95mm).

I could witter on about the negligable size differences between the two bearings, the fact that the horrendously expensive steering head bearings aren't available with integral seals, whilst the "cheap as chips" swing-arm bearings are... But I won't...

The swing-arm bearing races fit back to back in the bearing housings on the swing arm.  I use Castrol LM Grease on this type of bearing and it's served me well over the years...  I pack the bearing, coat the race and wipe off any excess grease after assembly.

The combination of grease and seals holds the bearings into the housings very nicely for assembly... I found that the best method of assembly was to apply copper-grease to the two axles, pass them through the bearings (from inside to outside) and then add the 1"steel spacer, leaving the end of each axle flush with the spacers...  The large (36mm) head on each axle can then be turned to start the axle threads screwing into the frame...

36mm Head on Axle:

(http://iloapp.empressmcc.org.uk/data/_gallery/public/11/142637055794352800_resized.jpg)

M25 thread on Axle:

(http://iloapp.empressmcc.org.uk/data/_gallery/public/11/142637054885431700_resized.jpg)

Axle Nut Tabwasher:

(http://iloapp.empressmcc.org.uk/data/_gallery/public/11/142637055418170400_resized.jpg)

Tightening, or "setting" taper roller bearings is described in many places and you'll probably have your own favourite... I started out with Ford Escort wheel bearings and so that method has stuck:

Tighten the axle (36mm head) until the up/down movement of the swingarm starts to "feel tight." At this point, the bearings are over-tightened.  Now loosen the axle, undoing it between ¹/₆ and ¹/₄ of a turn (60^o to 90^o)..

Note:  Repeat for the other axle before adding the tabwashers and axle locknuts.

The axle locknuts are of the 4-peg variety and require a special tool to tighten correctly.  The axle should be held in correct adjustment with a 36mm socket whilst the locknut is tightened  (NOT an impact socket, they are too large in diameter to fit inside the swingarm bearing housing).  I tightened the nuts to approx 30ft/lbs, then continued to turn the nut until I was able to set the tab-washer.

(http://iloapp.empressmcc.org.uk/data/_gallery/public/11/142645717417133200_resized.jpg)

More, later...

Jeff

Sprocket:

Which is why all this started in the first place...

To remove the gearbox sprocket, the sprocket and shaft must be locked to prevent it simply spinning with the nut...  Dave H (Snr) suggested locking the clutch basket/primary gear, but I'm reluctant to take the primary casing off (again!) ::)

I came up with this arrangement:

(http://iloapp.empressmcc.org.uk/data/_gallery/public/11/142645717122172500_resized.jpg)

Please Note:  The sprocket nut is a 27mm AF - LEFT-HAND thread.  The picture above shows the arrangement to TIGHTEN the nut, not loosen it...

I've arranged a length of old chain around the sprocket, such that it binds against itself and the crankcase when the sprocket rotates.  I've also placed a heavy-duty tyre lever in-between the chain and casing to spread the load...

Here's the output shaft, cleaned and ready for the new sprocket:

(http://iloapp.empressmcc.org.uk/data/_gallery/public/11/142645717323693500_resized.jpg)

Here's the new sprocket.  Loctite sealant applied to the splines, Castrol Grease applied to the sealing face:

(http://iloapp.empressmcc.org.uk/data/_gallery/public/11/142645717236005200_resized.jpg)

Here's the sprocket fitted.  The original tab-washer is in place (but useless) so a healthy dose of Locite thread-locker was applied, prior to torquing the nut up to 50 ft/lbs.

(http://iloapp.empressmcc.org.uk/data/_gallery/public/11/142645717516545900_resized.jpg)

Which means that the engine is ready to go back into the frame...  ;D

More, later...

Jeff

Togetherness:

I persuaded the current Mrs M and a a friend to lend a hand with the rebuild today...  ;D

There are a couple of bits and bobs that are a bit tricky to reinstall with the engine in, so I fitted them prior to reistalling the engine:

Starter solenoid - fits onto 2 x M5 studs under the battery tray.  The nuts are behind the solenoid when fitted, so fiddly with the engine in...

Ignition/Rectifier Assy:  This is quite a long part when kept in one piece, so it's tricky to manouvre it into the V of the engine and get it into place between the fame tubes.  Without the engine in it's an absolute doddle...

(http://iloapp.empressmcc.org.uk/data/_gallery/public/11/142645952597092400_resized.jpg)

The swing-arm will drop down and chip the coating off either itself, or the lower engine mounts, if left insecured.  I used an elastic bungee:  Wrapped around the frame seat rails, the hooks fit neatly into the lower shock mounts and hold the swingarm up out of the way...

It's always easier to fit the frame onto the engine with a V1000, so that's what we did.  Myself and a pal (Chris) at either end of the frame and Mrs M sliding the studs into place.  It took a matter of moments to fit the two together:

(http://iloapp.empressmcc.org.uk/data/_gallery/public/11/142645716993571700_resized.jpg)

The three engine studs were well coated with Copaslip before fitting, so went in nice and easy.  I'll be fitting some new stainless nyloc nuts and washers to make sure it all stays together properly...

More, later...

Jeff

So, it's been a month since I last posted up my witterings about this rebuild... Much has happenend - including a trip to visit family in murky Merseyside, #1 daughter reaching 16 years old, the entirety of series 1 of "Daredevil" on Netflix (I know...) my XS1100 is BOTR and I've even managed to tinker with the V1000 a little...

In the last gripping episode, our hero (and significant others) had managed to bring both engine and frame back together (a joyous reunion, with much celebration by all involved).  But that alone won't get the old girl back gallumphing down the Scottish country lanes... We need something to hang the wheels from...

Front end first:

(http://iloapp.empressmcc.org.uk/data/_gallery/public/11/142934081840450100_resized.jpg)

With new bearings races fitted to the steering head and matching bearings on the stem, the forks went back in quite easily... Something to note, however, is that the bearing adjuster lock-ring MUST be replaced with the recess facing down.  This is because the unthreaded section of the steering stem protrudes above the bearing shield and the bearings cannot be correctly tightened with the recess facing upwards (DAMHIKT..!!)

Meanwhile...

I've been collecting V1000 bodywork for a few years... Why..?  Well, because I do like to have a few "spares" knocking about... Just in case, as it were...  And I've always planned to change the colour of the bike.  Yes, I know the red is nice, but everyone has got a red one (well nearly) and I do like to stand out from the crowd a bit ( and not just around the waist..!)

So, this little lot has been washed, waxed and put into safe storage for future use...

(https://scontent-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xtf1/v/t1.0-9/11128608_10206322440208482_4265445051824105121_n.jpg?oh=9e1e4787175e81e03df0df19f937923c&oe=55D6AF65)

And a fresh set of panels will be going on...

I bought a fuel tank at the Stafford show a couple of years ago... Bargain price, but I should have held out for a better one... It's an aluminium number and it's a really good job that I didn't fancy polishing it up for the "cafe racer" look... When the old (red) paint came off, the tank was covered in filler - everywhere... It's never been crashed, but the standard of manufacture is so poor that every weld had to be covered over and every separate part filled... The filler neck is offset in its recess and the mounting bracket similarly bodged on... The size discrepancies between this and the original meant that a trial fit was essential before we moved to final paint...

(http://iloapp.empressmcc.org.uk/data/_gallery/public/11/142934082626020000_resized.jpg)

Doesn't look too bad in the primer, but there is a LOT of work to get it as good as this... It's a VERY tight fit on the frame rubbers, but seems to actually fit OK... Pity quantity of filler required has albeit negated any weight saving the alloy construction should have brought...

And...

Underskirt panels:

What a pain in the proverbial..!!  I've learned to hate these things...  I noted that the Broom Engineering "Vulcan" and the Hesketh Motorcycles "Kingswood" models have these much modified, or not fitted at all, and I'm right up for that...  So:

(http://iloapp.empressmcc.org.uk/data/_gallery/public/11/142934082127016400_resized.jpg)

Metal frame inserts - composite construction - thin gauge steel with alloy mesh inserts (not the cardboard seen in the picture).  These will be satin black when finished and secured to the frame with two p-clips (also seen) and a custom bracket mounted between the oil-cooler cover and the front edge of each insert.  This will:

• Stop the tank underskirt panels chafing away to nothing under the front edge of the fuel tank
• Promote increased airflow through the tank tunnel
• Prevent hot air rising from the front cyl from simply being channelled back to the rear cyl
• Permit access to the front carb cable adjustments without a near complete strip-down of the bike
• Just plain look better..!

And so to the other end...

I rather like the look of the Vampire, Vulcan and Kingswood V1000s rear ends... The guard is significantly re-shaped and about 4" shorter...

I had a NOS guard (black with gold pinstripes originally) so I set about it with some masking tape, schoolboy geometry skills and a jigsaw...  Some time, some paint, a great deal of skill (not mine) and some spanners later:

(http://iloapp.empressmcc.org.uk/data/_gallery/public/11/142934082380127200_resized.jpg)

For those who have never removed and or refitted a V1000 rear guard, a word of caution - don't bother... It's an absolute bugger..!!

The guard comes in two sections.  The forward section can't be fitted with both shock absorbers in place and it has to be ftted to the frame whilst trying to ensure that the rear brake master cylinder, brake hoses and brake switch mounting are are correctly in place... This is the 2nd I've fitted and BOTH had to be trimmed to prevent edges chafing the brake hose from the master cyl...

With that loosely in place, simply fit the rear section... Ha..!!  This new one is wider than the old one and wouldn't go into the frame... Some rearrangement of the associated spacers, washers and bolts got it sorted though...

A note of caution for V1000 owners - Check the wiring for your rear indicators.
When removing the indicators from the old (red) guard, I found that they had been seriously abraded by the back tyre...  I re-sleeved the wiring and have secured the lot well up into the guard, so it shouldn't happen again.  I suspect the damage occurred on last year's trip to Holland - first long trip with luggage fitted...

And yes, this is satin black... I've always thought that painting these sections in the bike's body colour really dates the machine (not in a good way).  So I'm going with this to see if the overall look improves (to my eye anyway).

More... as it happens (ish)

Jeff

Paintwork...

In a garage, not very far, far away...

One of my pals from the XS1100UK Owners Club (Gus) has been toiling away on the updated paintwork for my Hesketh rebuild...

I planned to change the colour after seeing the "H24 lookalike" at Hesketh Motorcycles a last year (2014 AGM).  I didn't really want to totally plagiarise the design, so I had a go at my own version:


I wanted the look of the H24 lookalike, but also wanted to maintain more than a passing reference to the original V1000.  That meant using these classic images:


I also wanted to make a big splash with this across the tank...


The alloy tank I sourced at Stafford appeared to be in good condition, but took a LOT of work to get to here:


The Union Jack flag turned out to be a very expensive option and local opinion and my tightwadnessosity conspired to ditch that idea... Plan B was always to go with the Hesketh 308 scheme used on the H24, so that's what happened.  The red/blue were picked to compare with the red/blue in the other decals...


Here's a near complete set of bodywork just waiting for lacquer now... 

Next installment will be after they're on the bike...

Jeff

Love the stuff you put on the site,had my v1000 for 3/4 years now and still love it and she still haven't missed a beat

Quote from: Will F on May 01, 2015, 02:49:53 PM
Love the stuff you put on the site...

Thanks Will.

Quote from: Will F on May 01, 2015, 02:49:53 PM
...had my v1000 for 3/4 years now and still love it and she still haven't missed a beat

I bought mine in 2011, so four years ago... The bike had been carelessly restored by a fekless wonder, so I've had a few bits and pieces to sort... She seems to be pretty reliable now - I've covered over 5K miles in that four years and she ran faultlessly at last years Annual Rally in Holland...  ;D

This work truly started as a result of having to drop the engine to change the gearbox sprocket... Just thought other folk would like to see what I'm up to... :)

Jeff

Managed a wee spurt of progress this weekend...

(http://iloapp.empressmcc.org.uk/data/_gallery/public/11/143124893186287600_resized.jpg) (http://iloapp.empressmcc.org.uk/data/_gallery/public/11/143124892964313200_resized.jpg)

That's Big H back on her wheels and the task of changing the sprockets has a tick against it (at long last.

She's sitting on a paddock stand because I'm playing about with the sidestand arrangements in attempt to improve security and confidence (more on that elsewhere).

One of the things that's crossed my mind during this rebuild is just how many times I've been working on the rear wheel...

(http://iloapp.empressmcc.org.uk/data/_gallery/public/11/143124897780732200_resized.jpg) (http://iloapp.empressmcc.org.uk/data/_gallery/public/11/143124897582658900_resized.jpg)

Admittedly, I'm incapable of leaving anything alone, but during my ownership I've done all of these maintenance/improvement tasks to the rear wheel alone:

• New Rear Tyre (twice)
• New Wheel Bearings
• Paint/polish & grease the rear brake mount (twice)
• Clean & Paint the rear brake rotor mount
• New bearing dust seals
• Nut & Bolt Mod to Spoke Roots
• New Rear Sprocket (Steel - 530 x 48T)
• Clean/dress rear axle (esp around index key slots)

And after all this, I'm still considering getting rid of the Astralites... ::)

I'm pretty confident that my wheels are safe to use with the bolt mod implemented, so it's not safety that's making me consider this... The first is looks - I think the spoked wheel V1000s just look beautiful, and the second is weight... The assembly pictured weighs 22kg (That's 3¹/₂ stone in old money) and that's just incredibly heavy for a rear wheel assembly.

It's actually heavier than the shaft drive wheel of my XS1100 (same size wheel/tyre) WITH the bevel box attached..!!  After playing about with the assembly in various states of assembly, I know it's NOT the wheel... It's the ancilliaries bolted to it - particularly the cush-drive and sprocket carrier...  I'll be playing about with a pair of Triumph Tiger wheels ('97 955i model) at a later date (again, for another thread and time...)

So...  Back on her wheels at last...

Jeff

One of the things I'm addressing in this rebuild is the carb control cables...

When I bought the bike, I set about checking the regular maintenence items, with a view to putting the bike into regular service...  I soon discovered that both lower throttle cables were bent through acute angles as they entered the carb-top adjuster and that the rear choke cable was missing completely..!

I ordered a new throttle cable from Mick B and was pleased to find that the new rear lower cable had a properly bent tubular guide:

(http://iloapp.empressmcc.org.uk/data/_gallery/public/11/143124896501302100_resized.jpg) (http://iloapp.empressmcc.org.uk/data/_gallery/public/11/143124896302874200_resized.jpg)

But disappointed to note that the front lower cable was just a straight one... The front carb sits higher than the rear and the problem of cable bending is actually worse...

(http://iloapp.empressmcc.org.uk/data/_gallery/public/11/143124895262623000_resized.jpg) (http://iloapp.empressmcc.org.uk/data/_gallery/public/11/143124895069640000_resized.jpg)

I decided to "suck it and see" and fitted the cables as supplied...  The bike has covered just over 5K miles with them fitted now and the front lower has started to split, with the outer conduit coils noticeably separated...  Not good... :(

Even less good is the problems I've experienced in adjusting the cables to balance the carbs - WHAT a PITA..!!  >:(

So, I'm throwing caution to the wind and getting some new cables made...  I've test-fitted the "good" rear cable to the front carb and there is definitely an improvement in the cable routing/positioning:

(http://iloapp.empressmcc.org.uk/data/_gallery/public/11/143124895416734000_resized.jpg) (http://iloapp.empressmcc.org.uk/data/_gallery/public/11/143124894042642600_resized.jpg)

As I was also experincing problems with the rear choke cable - I made this up as a "quick fix" from another cable I had lying about and it kept coming out of the adjuster on the carb - I've made up a set of drawings for all four lower cables and am waiting for Johnsons Cables to get back to me about them... The required bends in the tubular parts are quite acute and they need to see if they can make these up without causing problems to the inner...  More as that progresses...

Jeff

Well, it's been a two-steps forward, one step back kind of week...  I've had a few hours to tinker with the rebuild - I really need to get retired, as all that work stuff really gets in the way of important things..!!

First disappointment was discovering that Johnson's cables can't make up what's needed for the throttle and choke arrangements...  Pity, as I think the new cables would have made adjustment much MUCH easier...  I'll see what Venhill can offer and maybe even have a go myself...

Second disappointment has been the waterslide graphics for the tank... It's got to be redone due to inclusions in the lacquer, but it turns out that the decals have faded over time - looks like there was some real metal content in the gold ink used and it's oxidised to green on some...  So, I'm having some new vinyl decals printed/cut... Should be ready on Wedneday, so there's still a chance she'll be BOTR in time for the Ayr Classic Show (13th June, Ayr Racecourse).

Moving forward; the new chain is on, so the job that started all of this is now complete... I've fitted 16T front sprocket, 46T rear and a 96-link, heavy-duty, X-Ring chain (DID 530VMZ).

Additionally, I've sorted the correct grommets for the oil-cooler mount, so that's on.  The horn uses the same mount, so that's on too...

Third disappointment was the sidestand... The VN800 stand I had hoped to use isn't suitable to use with the original V1000 mounting bracket...  Ah well... At least the original stand fits a treat with my new exhausts...

Speaking of which... They're on..!!

I've used a pair of stainless headers from the last batch produced by Rob Bennett/Motad and a pair of "Megaton" style silencers... I wanted to give the engine more "breathing" and also needed to provide clear access for the use of a paddock stand... The original silencers don't do either of these things... The 19" megatons do...

here's a couple of pics with them all nice and shiney, before they get all that heat pumped down them...

(https://scontent-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/20023_10206549718530298_810420303303045600_n.jpg?oh=978fa7ae692f5562cdc605b9ff718273&oe=55C19EA4)

(https://scontent-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10423632_10206549717370269_8514619910143234505_n.jpg?oh=524dd0d2fe54b9ee6f096d9753155503&oe=55C93FDB)

Next up is to knuckle down and finish the switchgear, so the electrics can go back together and the headlamp and cowl can be refitted...  I'm going to need a very steady hand... :P

Jeff

Jeff

Jeff,

picking up from the paddock stand thread... the work you've done here is fantastic.

The use of the pics will assist many in the future.  As stated in my other comments, your bike is really coming on a treat and certainly will turn a few heads once complete.  I am aplore your attention to detail, something that must have taken many man hours (have you logged?)?

Good luck with the rest and some great articlues to come in the SOCK me thinks!! 

Scott

Thanks Scott;

To be honest, this Forum is almost exclusively populated with my "logging" details of work on my V1000 and it would be just too much for that to bleed across to the Sock too... I'm pretty comfortable posting my ramblings on-line and I'll restrict my Sock activities to editorial duties in the main...

I use an online gallery to host most of my pictures and add one or two to Facebook too...   Most of my pics are archived here: (http://xs1100.empressmcc.org.uk/#!album-11)

Jeff

Jeff,

totally understood...  :)

Scott

Hello Jeff,

I am with you entirely on this topic. The forum is potentially ten times better than the "Sock" so given that only about twenty of us use the forum, then I have to assume that 90% of "Socks" delivered by snail mail actually go straight to the wastepaper bin without being read.

Keep up the good work.

RB

Hi Jeff,
Just to encourage you in your endeavors I thought I would post my own rebuild to show you the big hammer method.
I might be longer working on mine as most parts are a bit special and one off.
To be serious it is the first time I have looked inside the engine for a long time and don't now know how many miles its done from the engine build. I would guess 12 years and about 30,000 miles of careful riding, I did see 8500 revs on the clock once.
One screw loose and two completely missing, I hope to find them in the oil tank.
I am hoping some of the steel parts are reusable and am trying to save the crank and cams ( steel long stroke crank and rally cam profile ).
At the moment I am stuck with trying to get the cams out of the heads but while I removed the nuts very easy, because I used alloy cam sprocket carriers to save weight,  I am afraid they have melted to the camshafts.
No idea if it will work but hayho!

First problem the photo files are way to big , how do you make them smaller??????

Thanks Rob... I would say at least 10 times, and at a fraction of the cost too...  ;)

Hi Mick... As with most forums, the photo size is drastically limited to prevent the webspace being rammed full with photos...  I use a gallery site for my own photos.  The site re-sizes the massive files from my camera for quick download speeds...  Being a complete anorak myself, I also use "MS Paint" to resize the photos as "thumbnails"

The Club has a similar site and I'd be happy to upload your photos if you e-mail me:  webmaster@heskethownersclub.org.uk  The Club Gallery site is here: (http://gallery.heskethownersclub.org.uk/#!home)

Hope that helps... I'm also happy to help "editing" posts to ensure photos are correctly linked...

It'll be interesting to see what you're faced with Mick... You gonna call it "The Phoenix..?"

Jeff

Back to the job in hand....

Steady progress this week... I finished refurbishing the switchgear... What a job..! Must be two full days invested in them... Every contact has been cleaned, the "kill" switch has been replaced - the old one was in very poor condition, the shells have been powder coated and the legends re-painted in... The end product is not 100% what I had hoped for cosmetically, but they're about 200% better than before, so can't complain...

(https://scontent-lhr3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpt1/v/t1.0-9/11071564_10206633455983682_9068562793132944437_n.jpg?oh=041e82a7f145aab50bf97fa1af7321b7&oe=55F51B52)

(https://scontent-lhr3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xta1/v/t1.0-9/11377291_10206633458223738_1671673746193699378_n.jpg?oh=2203848f0c3e67abca19812dd3cf444d&oe=56038C63)

Once the switches were finished, I could install them and complete the electrical installation... Whilst I was working on this, the postie arrived with a "cheap and cheerful" voltmeter I ordered via Ebay... It's a moving armature type and took three days to come over from Hong Kong (£10 and P&P free..!!) Looks pretty good all connected up and won't drain the battery like the old electro-mechanical clock did... I'll see how I get on with this one and judge whether or not to take the £70 plunge for a posh VDO one...

(https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/10984122_10206633462383842_3643059022694325527_n.jpg?oh=67f54a502439c41a0cd0dbb73b91607b&oe=560B7A42&__gda__=1443410237_ec4a7d396e678b04a4626d618c488df8)

So, with every connection checked, cleaned and tested, it was time to get the new battery filled and charged, then fitted... That went fine, but, of course, if something can go wrong, it will... I have a very bright tail-light and a dim brake light and no indicators at all... Tail-light taken apart (again) and bulb-holder internals rotated to correct position... That's sorted the stop and tail-light situation...  :D

I whipped off the indicator relay and connected a wire link in place... Both pairs of indicators work perfectly, as does the cancelling unit - just no flashing... So, I pulled the cover off the indicator relay. It's a simple electro-mechanical unit with a capacitor/resistor (CR) circuit that controls the time taken for the relay contact to break... It has a single pair of contacts that switch the output to the lights and the input to the relay... I used some fine wet/dry paper and some switch cleaner to clean the contacts up and, Voila, indicators too..!!

Next, I wanted to make sure the hydraulics were sorted before I fitted the front mudguard and headlamp cowl... I checked over the front bake hoses a while back and even though the hoses looked OK, I found a split in the outer cover of the top hose... I replaced this with a new stainless/braided hose from HEL - Bought at the Stafford show - made while I waited in less than 10 mins... Bargain price too...

The OEM hose is a Brembo part... No part number, but it does have a DoM label with "3/81" on it... That makes it 34 years old... Better look to getting the others changed too... ::)

(https://scontent-lhr3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpt1/v/t1.0-9/11262993_10206633468263989_8011123378309257026_n.jpg?oh=506a07ebfe0f53f8495a9d2aa46a793f&oe=55CBD0A7)

(https://scontent-lhr3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/v/t1.0-9/22594_10206633471664074_4275238837490489526_n.jpg?oh=0e5f444ff931c1eeeadc7e8b20758d4d&oe=55C6D2EE)

So, brake and clutch master cylinders fitted, both systems bled up a treat; time to fit the mudguard and cowl... The mudguard wasn't a problem at all. I test-fitted this pre-paint as it's an aftermarket "Rickman" style fibreglass part...It came without mounting holes, so I used the old "length of fuel pipe along the tyre" trick to ensure proper clearance and cut my own mounting slots... The cowling was a different matter... It's a 2nd hand part, not originally fitted to my bike, and hand made to fit to another bike decades ago... Before the paint went on I made certain the mounting holes were aligned... BUT... I forgot to check the flyscreen...!! Typically, I could get three out of four holes to align, but not the fourth... It was clear that "persuading" the screws in would end in tears, so I carefully overbored all four holes in the screen (to 8mm) and working from the centre out, the screws went in nice and neat...

(https://scontent-lhr3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/11377334_10206633473624123_5706101955556296296_n.jpg?oh=5ea5743b61ee8f69ac56d4c9029516fa&oe=5608DD49)

Next up is "control cables for beginners". My supplier for the new cables (Johnson's) fell at the first hurdle, but they did send the parts back as promised... I'll be having a go myself as soon as my conduit shears and solder pot arrive...

Once the cables are sorted, the carbs and airboxes can go on and it'll be time for oil, fuel and internal combustion...!! ;D

Jeff

Too nice an evening to waste...

A few weeks ago, I had a couple of infill panels fabricated by a local metal-bashing company... These are so I can ditch the awful tank "underskirt" panels, but still retain some protection for the electricals under the tank...

They were made to my own pattern, but "once in the metal" there were a few "tweaks" to be made...  Most of all, they need a 20deg bend to properly align with the frame tubes...  So, I dismantled the LHS one and got stuck in...

(https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/11205068_10206635540035782_8274509653895338723_n.jpg?oh=e0a2d36c5023e5a349662823fddf7c8e&oe=55BF23A6&__gda__=1442708912_6b742488065e5f858fb186a478ff3be5)

(https://scontent-lhr3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpt1/v/t1.0-9/11229558_10206635537995731_7797230940260384518_n.jpg?oh=b9a32d0b96207d3c3753c6af05eb6bef&oe=55F71ADD)

Didn't work out too bad, if I do say so myself... RHS one next, then a couple of bits dressed here and there and a coat of black satin to finish...

(https://scontent-lhr3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/1610941_10206635535635672_5004038086715919080_n.jpg?oh=2bb99458c4aee31ed0fcaf24bef2d3f8&oe=55BEE5A0)

Jeff

Quote from: MICK on May 21, 2015, 09:35:23 PM
...I might be longer working on mine as most parts are a bit special and one off...
....I am hoping some of the steel parts are reusable and am trying to save the crank and cams (steel long stroke crank and rally cam profile)...
...At the moment I am stuck with trying to get the cams out of the heads but while I removed the nuts very easy, because I used alloy cam sprocket carriers to save weight,  I am afraid they have melted to the camshafts...

(http://iloapp.heskethownersclub.org.uk/data/_gallery/public/10/143318814724200900_resized.jpg)

(http://iloapp.heskethownersclub.org.uk/data/_gallery/public/10/143318815130728600_resized.jpg)

Bloody hell Mick..!! :o

Is there anything in there that's going to be useable..?  I'm no metallurgist, but I do have a basic understanding of how heat affects steel... Will you be able to "trust" any of the hardened parts at all..?

Jeff

Though I have never tried heat treating before by burning down the building and exploding acetylene bottles, followed by quenching with seven fire engines I am quietly confident the completely over the top parts specifications could come to my rescue for some of the steel bits at least.

We shall see though the results will never be as shiny and nice looking as yours there is a lot of information to be had from the remains even if the timing marks are very difficult to find  :-\

Some would say it looked like that when it was on the road but I think they exaggerate just a little and I am having fun.

Mick

Not a great deal of progress this weekend... Spent a LOT of time editing a magazine for a load of old duffers in a single make bike club...  ;)

Also did a bit of work learning how to make cables up... Interesting stuff... Got myslf a cheapo "solder pot":

(http://www.bestools-hk.com/uploadfile/b1/Bestools2321/product/welding-tools-solder-pot/Solder-pot-BST-41C-1335233154-0.jpg)

and a collection of cable-making parts fron Venhill (other suppliers are available):

(http://www.venhilldirect.com/assets/images/cable_kit_universal_single_throttle_studio_600x600.jpg)

I've spent a while getting the correct measurements for the various cables and I'll post up more when they're finished off...

Meanwhile...  More phone photos to be going on with...

(http://iloapp.empressmcc.org.uk/data/_gallery/public/11/143318637948817500_resized.jpg)

(http://iloapp.empressmcc.org.uk/data/_gallery/public/11/143318704172241500_resized.jpg)

(http://iloapp.empressmcc.org.uk/data/_gallery/public/11/143318640896560200_resized.jpg)

Jeff

I'm liking this...

Scott

Thanks Scott... I'm getting near the end of my patience with it now... Should have been BOTR two months ago..!!

Anyway... At least it's got to the two steps forward and only one step back stage....

With the tank back from the painters, I needed somewhere safe to put it, so I put it here....

(http://iloapp.empressmcc.org.uk/data/_gallery/public/11/143340471957090500_resized.jpg)

Not as easy as it sounds... it's one heck of a tight fit and not fun to play with, with the bike on a paddock stand and two feet up in the air...

I was quite pleased with myself... Until the side panels went on and the seat came down...  Look at this gap...

(http://iloapp.empressmcc.org.uk/data/_gallery/public/11/143340474124821400_resized.jpg)

My 2nd poor photo doesn't show the problem quite as badly as it looked in "the real world", but the first one shows it quite well...  The gap between the side panel and the lower edge of the tank was about 13mm...   The rear/top edge of the tank was sticking up above the seat by the same amount...  It just looked "wrong". ???

The tank is an aluminium "Vampire" item... This is the first time it's been on the bike with the bike (near) 100% complete...  I checked clearance all around the tank and there was no doubt that it was mounted too high at the back...

I'm guessing that the alloy tank was fitted to the Vampires with modified rear mounts... I know the frame and airbox were different, but never having stripped down a Vampire, I'm not "au fait" with the specifics...

So... The next patient was wheeled in...

(http://iloapp.empressmcc.org.uk/data/_gallery/public/11/143340475365374400_resized.jpg)

V1000 rear tank mount... There are two...

Each mount comprises four separate parts, to do two different jobs... They secure the rear of the tank and locate the front of the seat... The parts are (from bottom to top):

• Steel spacer with shoulder for seat mount, recess for central spacer and 8mm clear hole
• Dished washer (helps the seat mount slide home properly
• Central spacer (approx 11mm o/d - 8mm clear hole)
• Hard rubber buffer.

The height of the shoulder on the steel spacer determines the height of the front of the seat.  This wasn't a problem...

The dished washer provides support for the rubber buffer and guides the seat into place... Also, not a problem...

The thickness of the rubber buffer determines the height of the rear tank mount... Aha..!!  The culprit..!

I disassembled one of the mounts and measured up the rubber buffer and central spacer.  The buffer is 20mm deep and the spacer protrudes though it by 6mm...  I looked through my "big box of odds and sods" and came up with a nice new shock absorber rubber of approximately equal diameter and an 8mm bore... I carefully cut this into two halves...

Measuring the difference between the old buffer and my hand-crafted replacement... I cut a length of Dural tubing (I have no idea where that came from...) to the correct length and reassembled the tank mount... I slipped it into place for a "test fit"...

(http://iloapp.empressmcc.org.uk/data/_gallery/public/11/143340472785297700_resized.jpg)

More poor phone photography... ::) The gap is now approx 4mm...  I'll be taking 1mm off my new "lightweight" central spacer (as there is some clearance between the rubber parts that shouldn't be there) and that'll take the gap down to 3mm.  Then I'll make up the 2nd mount to match...

Onwards...   8)

Jeff

Well... That was a pointless exercise...  ::)

I've never seen the modified airbox fitted to a Vampire, but the one fitted to the V1000 is a VERY close fit under the Vampire tank... My modified tank mounts are useless:

(http://iloapp.empressmcc.org.uk/data/_gallery/public/11/143370736136513500_resized.jpg)

I'll come back to this at another time, but it's becoming all too clear why some folk simply ditch the airboxes and also why the latest "Kingswood" V1000s are fitted with "Pod" filters instead...

I'll consider my options after the bike is back on the road...

Jeff

New No. Plate arrived... I took bloomin' ages measuring up and fitting this... I'm glad I'm not paying myself by the hour...!!

Standing back to shamelessly admire my work, I was quite taken by look of the bike with the seat raised...

Nearly there now...

(http://iloapp.empressmcc.org.uk/data/_gallery/public/11/143370740861238100_resized.jpg)

Jeff

Eery time you change something on a bike, you then have to compensate for the follow-on changes that happen as a result of your first change...  It's a real Pain in the A..!!

I decided to do away with the "underskirt panels", replacing them with metal "infill" panels that will allow more air circulation, whilst still providing for some protection to the ignition system components... (see post dated 24th May).

I've secured these to the frame using stainless steel "P" clips with rubber coverings, like these:

(http://www.aerohydraulics.com/images/thumbs/0016891_300.jpeg)

That works a treat.  But the underskirt panels also support the oil-cooler cowl... I managed to secure a couple of modern fairing fasteners for the two lower cowl scews, but I needed to fabricate a small "braquette" to secure the upper two... This is my third attempt after failing twice to get the all the required angles and dimensions correct...

(http://iloapp.empressmcc.org.uk/data/_gallery/public/11/143370729439302800_resized.jpg)

This ties the top of the cowl to both new infill panels and I must say the whole thing is very securely attached now...

Looks pretty smart too...

(http://iloapp.empressmcc.org.uk/data/_gallery/public/11/143370744336429000_resized.jpg)

Had her running today - the new "silencers" aren't as loud as I thought they might be... Especially as something has "gotten stuck" with all the faffing with cables and covers and the bike fired up a treat, but revved to 3K rpm and stayed there...

It's clear that the front cyl is holding the revs high... I'll get back in there and see what's gotten stuck and get the carbs balanced, etc... Soon be out on it again (watch out for a snow forecast in Scotland...)

Jeff

Very Nice
You might need to secure your rev counter cable before it rubs all that nice paint off the front mudguard under braking and when you ditch the air box be aware that the engine cam timing does mean that its a lot happier with long induction lengths to limit the effect of blowback.
Shame the numbers have already washed off the new plate  ;D
Carry on enjoying and posting , it brings back so many memories.
Mick

Thanks Mick...

That Tacho cable has been like that since I bought the bike... Dave Hartell commented that it should be under the oil cooler cowl when he saw the bike at Moniave... He also commented that they're prone to snapping, which mine never has - it doesn't touch the mudguard either - wish I could say the same for the speedo cable, which wore a neat hole right through the paint on the original red 'guard...

Even though it's quite a bit shorter than the original, This one will be getting a neat piece of clear "Fablon" (or similar) on the area between the speedo cable and the guard, just in case... ::)

Any joy getting those camshafts out yet..?

Jeff

Getting fed up with this now... >:(

Got the bike started on Sunday... She started up albeit immediately, as the button was pressed, so all good there... But...

When the choke was pushed in, the revs didn't come down...  In fact, nothing I could do would bring the revs down... BUGGER..!!

It was clear that the front cyl was holding the revs high, so the tank would need to come off and everything re-checked there... I turned the bike off and went for a ride on my XS1100... Boringly reliable... ;D

On Monday evening, I set about checking the front carb - airbox off (again) carb off (again), only to discover that the new throttle cable was holding the carb slide open... The inner is 10mm too short..!! What..?!!  I triple-checked that..!!

Ah well, dementia will have it's way... I made a new inner (getting quite good at making cables now...) of the correct length and refitted everything, bar the tank.

I set the bike up with a remote tank and vacuum gauges and left to re-join the fray the next evening (Heskeths are too noisy to be playing about with after 9pm, if you want to maintain good neighbour relations).

Came back to the bike yesterday evening... Again, she started "on the button", but this time the revs dropped as the choke was pushed in... The front cyl appears to be running fine... Can't say the same for the back cyl, which was popping and farting badly... The occasional POP! from RH silencer made me suspicious, so I went around that side to inspect closer... There was actually fuel leaking out of the header/silencer joint... :-[

Aaaargh....!!!

I turned the bike off... Removed the RH silencer (to drain and dry it out), removed the rear spark plug (to give the cyl a chance to dry out), drained and removed the remote tank (to stop any more fuel leaking into the cyl) and took the XS1100 out for another spin (That is one sweet engine, by the way...)

Tonight I'll take the battery, rear airbox and rear carb back off... This auld bugger won't beat me..!! ;)

Jeff

Cables need very careful installation.
free play and total movement
You cannot do the final carb balance with the tank off.
popin in the exhaust is the slides out of position
You cannot set the slides up physically , only on the vacuum.
Hope this helps.

I left the bike alone for a couple of days - been working on it for WEEKS and getting sick of it... ::)

Came back to it, pulled the rear airbox and carb off... Looks like an idiot has been in there (whoops)  :-

Float height wrong, slide adjustment wrong, not holding my mouth correctly either...  :o

So, sorted the carb and cable adjustment... refitted everything and gave it another go...

AFTER taking the XS1100 for it's MOT - which it totally sailed through...

By midday today, the bike was ready for the road...

(https://scontent-lhr3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/11217513_10206789021392720_7086555806269335251_n.jpg?oh=ef4a021eb565c77c26e863ce1b404c4e&oe=56001A05)

(https://scontent-lhr3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/11111624_10206789022952759_543519119966527254_n.jpg?oh=d369719a934cd3b615a84bf83d69dfdb&oe=55F74FF1)

(https://scontent-lhr3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xta1/v/t1.0-9/11403316_10206789032673002_3618867182822866884_n.jpg?oh=317eb7227a3d043331b974c9f92935d5&oe=55F2C7EE)

Took her out for a spin... 60 miles without major mishap... Although the new chain needed adjustment immediately

Points to note include just how much better the bike rides with the 46T rear sprocket and how much better the engine pulls with the new exhaust system (sounds ACE too...!!)

It'll need re-jetting to suit these new pipes, but I've had her up to 70mph and she seems absolutely fine - better than before, in fact...

The voltmeter works fine, but not easy to see in bright sunlight... I haven't missed the clock as yet...

Oh... Must mention the sidestand - still terrifyingly shite... :o

Thanks to everyone who posted advice and particular thanks to Paul and team at Hesketh Motorcycles and my pal Gus for the paintwork...

Jeff