My original CIBIE IODE hedlight is worse than useless, not helped by the plastic cover over it or the fact that the reflector on my one has gone milky. Unfortunately these lights have now been added to the "Classic" silly price list because (I think) they were fitted to the Escort Mexico, RS and the like. The ones that I have seen in autojumbles or on ebay also seem to have poor reflectors so maybe it is an age thing. The V1000 (Golf) headlight is much better but it doesn't fit although maybe it can be made to?
Has anyone upgraded the Vampire headlight to an alternative one that works in the dark? Maybe also a glass cover like the one on the old BMW-R100RT fairing would also be better than plastic?
Many thanks...
Answered my own questions, almost!
Exact replacement CIBIE headlight from Holden and a 100/80W H4 lamp from Autobulbs Direct. Not for Road use.....
I will report on this once fitted and keep looking for a suitable replacement to the not-so-clear bit of plasic in front of it
This rings a few bells for me Rob...
The OEM headlights were Bosch H4 units (same spec as the VW Golf Mk I) and my own V1000 is sporting a cheap and cheerful copy by "Hella". I had been thinkng of replacin this with a Cibie unit as I had very good results "back in the day" when I swapped the 7" Koito unit out of my CB750F2 for a Cibie Iode one... The difference was like night and day (sic).
I've had at least 3 Cibie units in various bikes and they've all performed mavellously, but have all had the same basic flaws... Poor build quality being about the worst of these. On all of them, the headlamp socket wasn't sealed from the elements properly and the sidelamp aperture was barely sealed at all... I'm not surprised that yours has gone milky...
So... What to replace it with? Another Cibie perhaps..?
(http://iloapp.empressmcc.org.uk/data/_gallery//public/1/134951425129099000_resized.jpg)
Larkspeed Performance Centre sell these at £35.50 each... They have them listed on ebay here:
7" Cibie (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-x-CIBIE-7-ROUND-HEADLAMP-MAIN-DIP-H4-LIGHT-UNIT-/230545956036?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item35ad9c1cc4). They're made/branded as Valeo these days, but I'm reliably informed that they're the same Cibie units.
Probably the same units as Holden are using, I'm thinking....
AS for the 100/80W bulb... You may need to upgrade the headlight wiring... I wouldn't trust the handlebar switch to switch the extra current reliably. I'd probably fit a couple of relays (SPST for "ON" and SPDT for "DIP/MAIN"). I'd certainly check the charge level at the battery once fitted, I feel that the OEM charging system struggles with the original 60/55W bulb...
Happy tinkering
Miti
Thanks for the advice which I will follow. I do allready have a relay that switches the side light on for daytime riding and have upgraded this to a 20W QH which is good enough to be seen.
Nice ride today on the V1000 arround the Isle of Purbeck, down to Swanage and then back home to North Dorset. It is getting chilly now though but it makes the bike go even better.
After some further research I have come to the conclusion there is not much wrong with the Vampire headlight and that 8.7 volts probably isn't quite enough. And that is with the standard bulb fitted and a freshly charged battery. Granted this does increase to just over 9 volts with the engine at 4,000 rpm and 13 .2 volts at the battery terminals.
With a pair of relays fitted for Hi / Low with additional 7.5 amp fuses on each, and powering from the Orange lead which is direct battery voltage via the ignition switch the difference is like, you guessed it, night and day! 12.5 volts at the headlamp with Hi or Lo beam.
Just for a laugh, I checked the V1000 which does have the Superior BOSCH headlight but the voltage was again very low so that has also got the relay treatment now, and an amazing headlight.
Talking to the local bike shop, they recognize the HESKETH handlebar switches as GS1000 which as standard have relays for everything.
So, the HESKETH handlebar switchgear was never designed to run without relays for HI/LO beam, or for the horn, and now that it is 30 years old it is simply giving up the good fight.
Does this make sense?
Hi Rob;
Yes, the whole thing makes sense... Sounds like a good fix, but you haven't mentioned the headlamp bulb earth connection... Could be worth a look-see as voltage drop can occur anywhere in a series linked circuit...
Miti
Agreed but this was checked. There are two earth wires and I am using the same ones as before the relays were fitted.
I certainly also agree with a previous post on the cables both side of the starter relay and the earth cable all of which should changed to a modern hi-flex and the frame earthing points doubled up.
I've had a few bikes that have benefitted greatly from some judicious tweaking with respect to certain parts of the electrics... The most common parts I've modded are:
Starter cables
Frame earths
HT Leads
Alternator/Harness connectors
Fuse boxes
My own V1000 has already benefitted from most of the above (not the fuse box) and I've also been right through the wiring and replaced ALL of the soldered and rubber insulated bullet connectors with crimped/PVC insulated ones. I'll certainly be looking to check the voltage at the headlamp terminals next time the headlamp cowling is off. If there's a measurable difference twixt battery and lamp terminal voltages, I may well be adding relays myself...
Miti
Rob
I have just purchased Colins Evans repaired Vampire fairing thats been in his loft for 20 odd years.
I am intending to fit this to the blue bike; which Mick and Paul S are helping to get it sorted very soon.
At present i dont have the perspex cover so would also be interested in buying a small batch...
Thanks
Tig
Hello Tig,
Sorry, I only just checked the forum for the first time in a while. Yes, as already discussed, let's look at the glass option, same as the old BMW R100RT used to use plus others. Plastic is rubbish for this job.
Cheers,
Robert