Sprockets

[Miti]

I need a new rear sprocket...   

It's a 530 x 48T, and I'm pretty sure that this size, paired with a 15T gearbox sprocket, is the preferred size on the V1000... (The Vampire has a 46T rear).  The sprocket isn't made in the same way most motorcycle sprockets are, it's thicker than a normal 530 sprocket and acts as a closely toleranced spacer between the sprocket carrier and the cush-drive casting.  Because of this, it's a "Hesketh specific part."

It seems that there are no spares available for this part (unless you know differently) and I've approached a firm to get a quote for a "bulk run".  I'll use my old "supersprox" marked original as a pattern.  This sprocket has been EN10 modded to accept 4 M8 bolts and a 12mm steel dowel.

So, if you're interested in acquiring rear sprockets, please let me know ASAP.  They'll be steel, not alloy, by the way...

At this stage, all quotes will be 530 x 48T and I'll need to know the following:

No. of sprockets required:
Whether or not the 12mm steel dowel hole is required.

As soon as I know quantity required, I'll seek a ROM quotation.  Early indications are that they'll cost about £40 each, plus VAT and P&P (of course).  I'll be looking to get this price as low as possible and that will only happen if I can get the quantity high enough to generate a per-unit discount...

Please feel free to post up here if interested, or to contact me (see HOC site Contacts page).

And, most importantly, if you have 50-odd 48T sprockets lying abuot in your garege, please let me know...

Thanks

Jeff

[MICK]

If you are looking at sprocket blanks then check if its a metric or imperial one.
As you say it is part of the preload fit in the hub and is important.

[Miti]

Hi Mick;

That's why I'm going with a specialist supplier... My contact worked for Supersprox when HMC were sourcing the parts for the V1000 and he's aware of the requirements... Can you remember why the Vampire should be different though..?  Rob B's 46T Vampire sprocket has a well defined edge just inside the teeth... The sprocket centre is way thicker than the 8.8mm that the 530 teeth should be... Nearer 10mm.  The V1000 sprocket doesn't have this ridge and it's nearer 9mm...  Very close fit inside the chain links...

Jeff

[Julf]

i would be interested in one or two depending on price. How do I find out which dowel hole option I have?

[Miti]

Hi Julf;

They all start out with 5 x 8mm holes, spaced @ 72^o apart.  Bikes with the mods noted on Pg 13 of the "EN 10 Story"  booklet also have one of these holes opened out (12mm I think) to accommodate a large steel dowel, like this (apologies for huge photos, please use up/down/left/right arrows to navigate).



and



Unfortunately, the only way to see if you have this mod is to take off the rear wheel, unbolt the sprocket carrier and examine the parts.

Miti

[Julf]

OK - mine is a partial Kingswood EN10, will have to have a look! Thanks!

[MICK]

The sprocket blanks are imperial 3/8th or 9.5mm in your money  in HE30tf
The dowel hole is reamed 1/2" to a depth so you can use a bit of 1/2" tube as a driving hollow dowel which the 8mm bolt passes through
No expense spared at easton neston
It stops the bolt shearing off.
Last when the Vampires came out of the shed they used a standard V1000 sprocket.
Mick

[MICK]

Just to be clear on the sprocket blanks
The factory ones were 3/8th with the teeth area machined down for the chain hence the ridge
Some of the later bikes had metric blanks fitted by mistake by the customers and the spacers adjusted to suit ( just to keep us on our toes )

[Miti]

Well, folk will need to unbolt the sprocket carrier to see if the 1/2" dowel has been fitted... At that point measurement of the thickeness of the sprocket and the two bearing spacers will be a doddle (what a quaint design, by the way...)

I know mine doesn't have the step but does have the dowel.  It's marked 530 48T and has the "Supersprox" logo engraved into it.  It's also knackered...

Rob B and Derek both brought their Vampires to Stafford... Both had sprockets with a step in the thickness.  Rob also brought a spare sprocket.  Both his Vampire and the spare were 46T...

So, I'll need more info, by the look of it...   The thickness of the two bearing spacers, for a start...

Thanks Mick...

Jeff

[Miti]

Last when the Vampires came out of the shed they used a standard V1000 sprocket.

After speaking with Dave H, it appears that my 48T rear sprocket represents one of the "differences" on my bike... I already have spear front sprockets - all 15T.  Is that the correct match for a 46T rear..?

And...

It appears that I'll need to lower the engine out of the frame to remove the front sprocket (brilliant!!)

It there a correct order of activities to get the sprocket off/on..?  I don't want to get the engine out only to find that the sprocket won't come off...

Thanks

Jeff

[Dave Snr]

Hi Jeff.

The engine only has to be lowered a few inches to access the sprocket - this is what I do:-
Fuel tank, air filter boxes off. Pillion footrests off so silencers are free.
Rear wheel out. Loosen the ties that hold the oil lines, carb cables fuel lines etc to the frame.
Then support the engine on convenient bits of wood.
Support frame using a tie down from a convenient joist above.
Remove three engine to frame holding bolts and gently lift frame a few inches by shortening the tie down until sprocket is accessible, making sure that no cables of oil pipes are stretched.
The front carb cables are quite short, but I get away with leaving the carb in place, but I know a lot of people remove it from the stub.
Here is a photo of how it looks as long as my photo linking works.

Now you have to undo the sprocket nut remembering that it is a Left Hand Thread, i.e opposite to normal.
On "normal bikes" you would put it in gear and apply rear brake to stop sprocket rotating, but with the Hesketh you need to find another way of locking the engine rotation.
The way I've done it, is to remove the primary drive cover (forgot to mention this earlier) and lock up the primary gears. Don't be tempted to put a screw driver between the gears as this can over stress the hardened teeth. I use something soft like a piece of pine softwood shaped into the correct wedge shape. Introduce this between the primary gears, as you loosen the sprocket nut. Once sprocket nut is off make sure you remove all traces of wood splinters from the primary gears.
Hopefully Mick Broom or someone else might suggest another method of locking the engine.
Now use a sprocket puller to remove sprocket - Photo:-

With sprocket removed, reassembly is the reverse sequence.
A couple of Tips that Mick gave me years ago when I first bought sprockets off him were:-
Use some silicone gasket on the splines  to make sure no oil leaks along them.
You can use the locking tab washer, but this is soft metal and can distort, so better to use nut lock sealant.
Make sure the sprocket nut is really tight - if it comes loose you can't easily tighten it in situ.
Again I use the softwood between the gears to lock the engine, making sure all bits are removed!
Here's the new sprocket in place.

Standard V1000 gearing is 15T, 46T.
Vampires used 16T gearbox sprockets to raise the gearing by 6.6%.
I also changed to 16T gearbox sprocket as you can see in photo.
This lowers the engine revs when touring, improving the fuel and oil consumption.
Downside is the higher gear for pulling away, but I've had no problems two up touring.
Hope this helps.
Dave H

[Miti]

Thanks Dave.

That's a great write-up and I'll cetainly be using that info in the next couple of weeks.

I have to say that the fact that the engine has to be "lowered" to change the gearbox sprocket takes "quirky" to a whole new level...

My XS11 has a similar swingarm bearing setup - two taper-roller bearings and two stub-axles.  But, the XS has them screwed in from the outside of the frame, not the inside... Amazingly, you don't need to remove the engine to get the swingarm out...  Funny that...

Jeff

[Miti]

So... Some weeks later, my engine is "lowered..."



Actually, I've been getting more and more dissatisfied with the paint on my bike's frame... It chips and cracks alarmingly and shows every mark - cable ties, for example...

I'll post up more as the bike progresses...

Jeff