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IGNITION COIL WIRING

Started by Pete D, August 01, 2015, 07:58:15 PM

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Pete D

Ok.....

I get it re float heights!!

Hopefully the 'how to' for Dellortos is clear on the method and specs....

Cheers  ;D

Dave Snr

Hi Pete,

I've sent you and Andy Smith an email, so Andy can let you have the powder coating info.

The Dellorto manual downloadable from this site is good.
Mick Broom produced a set of figures for the carbs for Daventry bikes as follows:-
Float height 17.5 to 18.5mm
Main Jet front carb 150 rear 155.
Needle K2 - set to middle groove.
Slide 603
Idle 60
NJ 265
Pump J 33
Needle valve 250 Float 10
Accel pump 9.5cc

These original settings are safe and on the rich side, which is why any change to float height can oil the plugs.

Quite a few owners, myself included, have gone down a size on the Main jets and backed the accelerator pumps off. That way you don't get the plumes of black smoke when you open the throttle quickly and you get 45 mpg touring two up. But as every Hesketh is different, start with the standard settings.

Dave H



Pete D

Dave

Many thanks for your mail and time spent scribing the figures above.  Hugely appreciated.

Cheers

Pete

Miti

Quote from: Dave Snr on August 08, 2015, 03:53:09 PM
Accel pump 9.5cc

Hmmm..?  I had a go at 'calibrating' my accel pumps yesterday...

Using a 50ml syringe as my reservoir, the front carb uses 1ml per 10 'squirts'.  1ml = 1cc, so 9.5cc would be ten times as much...  The damn thing would hydraulic lock...!!  That can't be right, can it..?

Anyway... Each 'squirt' is a sizeable jet of fuel and I have a definite over-richness that seriously worsens when the bike is used 'energetically' on the twisties... A steady 70 mph on motorways produces 45 mpg (ish), an average of 50 mph (ish) on Scottish A-Roads reduces this to 35 mpg (at best).

So... I've used an impirical measure to reduce the amount of fuel being introduced at each squirt... I've guessed...

Some folk have completely disabled the accel pumps on their PHF's, so I figured a half-way house couldn't hurt... With the front carb off the bike and held in a soft jawed vice, I adjusted the diaphragm plunger position until the pump was producing the smallest real jet of fuel (not a dribble).  Then I made a note of how many turns from 'fully seated' this was... Its 1.5 turns...

I've made a MASSIVE assumption that both carbs will react similarly to adjustment and reset the rear carb on the bike... Diaphragm adjusting screw all the way in, then 1.5 turns out and locked off...

I have a nice new DPDT relay to wire into the coils now and then we can try and start the auld bugger up again... ::)

Ho hum...

Jeff
1974 Triumph T160 Trident (New Project)
1981 Yamaha XS1100 Sport (Trike Project)
1981 Yamaha XS1100 Sport (Red Sport)
1982 Hesketh V1000 (Production/Development Engine)

Pete D

Fingers crossed for you on the first start......

It seems there are only a few prolific posters.......I have joined, but on full 'suck'...for info.

I'll try to add value as I sharpen up.

Miti

Hi Pete... Prolific is right...  ;D

I regard this forum as my personal Hesketh diary... Wasn't intended as such at the start, but best laid plans, eh..? ::)

Jeff
1974 Triumph T160 Trident (New Project)
1981 Yamaha XS1100 Sport (Trike Project)
1981 Yamaha XS1100 Sport (Red Sport)
1982 Hesketh V1000 (Production/Development Engine)

Pete D

#21
Out on another test ride last Sunday. Seems to have smoothed out now. Oil leaks reducing as motor gets warm in all the right places....

I seem to have lucked in.....with considerable help from you chaps. Hope to meet up soon.

Cheers

Pete

Rob B

Hello Pete,

This is good news. HESKETHS are much better for riding than showing and they hate being stored for any length of time. Just a couple of hints for winter riding.

1. Apply ACF50 everywhere you can by brush.
2. Don't let a pressure washer anywhere near the bike because the wheel bearings etc. only last for a few miles if you do.
3. Regular wash-downs with nothing more than fresh water and leave all the oil leaks and chain lube in place until the salt is off the roads in the spring and you can risk using detergents.

My HESKETH's generally look awful throughout the year and especially in the winter. They are certainly no use for showing but they work!

RB

Hesketh V1000 Black/Gold/Gold EN10++
Hesketh V1000 Red/Black/Black EN10++
Hesketh V1000 Black/Red/Black EN0
Laverda 180 Jota  Orange!
Triumph 900 Sprint

Pete D

Poor old girl has dropped onto one cylinder again.....this time the new Iridium plug seems to have failed, with the spark arcing from central (cathode?) to the outer rim, and not between the arm and cathode......

I can only suspect a bad plug as it gave me a good old jolt through the plug cap on turning the beast's ignition off.  Note to self - let go before switching next time!

Wonder if there was a bike-related reason for the plug failing after only a short few minutes' life...... ???

Rob B

I know for a fact that IRIDIUM plugs don't work with a Jota so I never bothered trying them in a HESKETH. NGK DR8EA have proved the most reliable (and cheaper) for V1000 and Vampire.

Electrode! :-)

RB
Hesketh V1000 Black/Gold/Gold EN10++
Hesketh V1000 Red/Black/Black EN10++
Hesketh V1000 Black/Red/Black EN0
Laverda 180 Jota  Orange!
Triumph 900 Sprint

Pete D

Thank you Sir......I stand corrected!!!

Pete D

Chaps

I think I am going to replace the HT leads and connectors/plug caps as a matter of course over the next few weeks; any recommendations?

TIA

Pete


Miti

1974 Triumph T160 Trident (New Project)
1981 Yamaha XS1100 Sport (Trike Project)
1981 Yamaha XS1100 Sport (Red Sport)
1982 Hesketh V1000 (Production/Development Engine)

Pete D

Thabnks very much Jeff; as ever, most kind.  I have also tapped you up for plug cap recommendations......!!

Miti

1974 Triumph T160 Trident (New Project)
1981 Yamaha XS1100 Sport (Trike Project)
1981 Yamaha XS1100 Sport (Red Sport)
1982 Hesketh V1000 (Production/Development Engine)