V1000 Engine - Workshop Manual

[HOCAdmin]

Hi Folks.

Yes, this is a plea for help.  You may already have what I need, so here goes... I've been re-writing the V1000 Engine manual (so it's less page-based and more web-friendly) and the project has been stumbling along nicely.  The text is a long way forward now and is beginning to look almost OK... The photos that accomapny it though are far from OK.  The original document was produced using early 80's technology and very little in the way of funding.  I'm hoping that we can do a LOT better with 21st century technology and no bloomin' funding..!

So... Taken any photos of your engine whilst it's been apart..?  If so, I'd love to see them...

Thanks

[HOCAdmin]

BUMP..!!

C'mon...!  Really..??  No-one out there has ever taken photos of the guts of their engine whilst repairing it..?  (what a sad cabbage I must be then... )

HOCAdmin

[Will F]

Any news on the manual? Would apreciate anything no matter how incomplete

[Miti]

HOC has a web-page based version of the manual.  The text is OK, as long as your engine is pre-RN10, but the photos are almost illegible, hence my plea (above).

If there is specific info you're looking for, let me know and I'll dig it out for you.

Jeff

[Will F]

Hi Jeff just wanted to get an idea about removing the little  round things on the cam covers to stop a leak,and the lh engine casing to try and sort a rubber bung for the opening where the alternator wires come out again its leaking thanx Will

[Miti]

Hi Will.  Do you mean the round bearing housings on the left hand side of the engine (as sat on the bike) or the oil "quills" that screw into the "V1000" camchain covers on the RHS of the engine?

To remove the primary drive casing (alternator side) the manual states:

PRIMARY DRIVE (DISMANTLING)

Drain the engine oil by removing the front drain plug only. (Alternatively, lean the machine over about 20° to the right).

Remove the footrest socket screw (8mm Allen key) and the gear operating arm from the cross-over shaft (5mm Allen key), allowing the pedal and its mechanism to hang down. Refit the screw and washer to the gear arm to avoid confusing it with the cover screws (which are longer and have no washers).   
Detach all three alternator wires from their connections. It is not necessary to remove the alternator cover, filler cap or clutch adjustment cover. Release the thirteen socket screws around the drive cover, (5mm Allen key).

Even when the engine oil is drained a small quantity of oil may drain from the cover as it is released. Take care that the thrust washer on the front starter chain spindle is not lost when the cover is removed.

My own V1000 has the alternator wiring grommet sealed with RTV silicone...

Hope that helps

Jeff

[Will F]

Hi Jeff its the quills,thanx for the info,the grommet fell to bits so i used silicone but it melts!i swapped it for high temp silicone but still leaks and i am worried about bits of rubber sloshing around looking for an oilway to block!
Best wishes Will

[Miti]

The quills simply screw in... They'll come undone if you use the biggest flat-blade screwdriver bit in an impact-driver, or you can modify an allen bit (grind away two opposing sides) until it just fits into the slot...

The quills are sealed with a dowty seal:



They can be re-used, but the rubber part can tear and that'll cause a leak...

BTW:  It's worthwhile removing the "V1000" camchain covers and thoroughly cleaning out the internal oilways... Same with the quills... I found swarf in the oilways on mine and a completely blocked quill!  Fortunately the engine had only covered 40 miles since a rebuild, so no (apparent) damage.

For sealing the casings I use Dow-Corning 781 RTV silicone from Screwfix Direct... It might not be the perfect engineering solution... but it seems to work well

Hope that helps

Jeff